Good Vibes!!!

So… I have a “friend” that asked if I could help with something.

 

She had something called an OhMiBod.  It’s a …. um… it’s a vibrator.

HAHAHAHA

Super mature.  Anyway.  She has this thing called an OhMiBod Club Vibe.  It’s supposed to vibrate to your music  Looks like this.

HAHAHAHAHAHA

Pervert

Dude really?  ANYWAY!

So apparently she prefers to crank her music from her phone to said vibe.  But apparently this thing is when you crank the volume, the primary function of this thing (vibrating to the music) all but disappears and it’s just “on.”  So I was asked to fix it.

I bet you fixed it.  Haha

Don’t you have somewhere to be?

So.  I decided to see if I could knock back the levels on the audio.  I remembered a tutorial I saw once on how to make an attenuator for video to create a safety track on one of the channels.

Really?  Safety Dance?

So I built out a quick little voltage divider.  Started with a 150 ohm and a 1k ohm.  It helped but it got better once I went down to a 150 ohm and a 220 ohm.

Hehe

*sigh*

So I tested everything out using the breadboard and alligator clips.

Nipple clips..

DUDE!

So now it’s time to tighten everything up

….

NO!  Before this guy completely implodes here.

I took a dead marker out of the craft bin and cut it apart.  Put a piece on each side of the attenuator and soldered it up and have a male and a female 3.5mm jack on each side.

Shut it…

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Once it was all soldered up, I hot glued the pieces together and wrapped some tape around the one end to give the shrink wrap something to hold on to.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Now lets throw some shrink tube on it and make it nice and neat.

So I gave it to her and from what I “hear” it’s getting the job done.

And I’m the perv… 

So in all seriousness.  This was actually interesting.  I have never hacked part of someone’s sex life before but this was interesting.  Not my normal stuff, but hey, glad I could help.

You lended a helping hand..

I’m done.

PS.  Is a hackgasm a thing?

OpenHab Wall Switch

So recently I started thinking about my HA system when I have guests.  I have a small house (not a tiny house) just a small house.  When my parents visit they setup camp in the living room.

vYtvpWpWorking on getting PIR motion sensors to turn things on and off.  But with guests, I need a guest mode to disable the motion sensor…. and not because I tend to dance in front of the motion sensors.

 

 

89b1c00006954836a703dfc0457c8626But with the motion sensors disabled.  There still needs to be a way for the folks to control the lights.  So I started thinking.

What I came up with was physical buttons, pass something to mqtt, then to openhab.  Openhab rule to control “group” of lights aka living room.

So time to start proto typing some things.  First I wanted to see if I could somehow make it work without putting holes in the wall.   WAF = 10 on that one.

2016-06-12 17.31.52So I started by 3d printing a light switch blank panel.  It’s a rough print, but needed to see if I could make it deep enough to put some triple A batteries to run it.

Once I tested some depth I was happy.

Frank-GrimesNext to build build some electronics.

 

So I broke out the good old arduino uno.  This is my go to for initial builds even though I usually end up with a pro mini in the end.  The uno is a great test bed.

So it started out with Uno + Ethernet Sheild + 2 buttons.

2016-06-12 12.53.39-2

 

I ended up adding just a notifcation LED just so I know once it’s connected to MQTT since I am not watching via serial monitor now.   2016-06-12 17.34.42So what does this get us now?  Well.  It boots up.  You press one button, all the lights in the living room turn on.  Press the other and they turn off.  I know what you’re thinking.  So what?

One of the lights is a phillip hue light.  The other is controlled via z-wave.  So how did I do this.  Lets start with the item definitions in openhab.

//Group Definition
Group gLivingRoomLights

//Items
Switch Switch_LivingRoomStandingLight "Living Room Light"     <light> (gLivingRoomLights,gDashboard) { zwave="2:command=switch_binary" }
Switch LivingRoomTableLight   "Living bulb" (gLivingRoomLights,Switching) {hue="1"}

//Dummy ITEM that is set via mqtt
Switch LivingRoomLights "Living Room Lights" {mqtt="<[mqtt:switches/livingroomlights:state:default]"}

So in my items file, I have the 2 light items and a dummy switch.  Notice the 2 light items are in the “gLivingRoomLights” group.  This is important.

Now for the rules.


rule "Living Room Lights"

when
Item LivingRoomLights changed
then
if(LivingRoomLights.state==ON)
{
gLivingRoomLights.sendCommand(ON)
logInfo("All Living Room Lights","ON")
}
else
{
logInfo("All Living Room Lights","OFF")
gLivingRoomLights.sendCommand(OFF)
//off
}
end

So this rule is triggered when the Dummy Switch (LivingRoomLights) changes.  If the state was changed to ON then i send the “ON” command to the entire group.  Same for when I turn it off.  So to test it I used mqtt-spy and manually did it.  All is working.

k16232506

What’s next is I am going to work on shrinking said project down to using an arduino pro mini, 2 AAA batteries.  For the network transmission I am back and forth between 2 options.

  1.  esp8266 – using the esp is great, but it’s not very forgiving on power.   I know there are deep sleep modes, but they aren’t really good for what I need with multiple buttons.
  2. nrf24l01 – RF modules.  These little suckers are really easy on the power.  If I use these I have to build a rf->ethernet bridge.  But with these I think the power consumption is much simpler.

Either option I go with, I can use a pro mini and have 2 interrupts I can attach to buttons.

Down the road if I need more buttons, I can use a pro micro and get something like 14 interrupts and still be able to use deep sleep.

iphone-battery-iconIf I wanted to cut holes in the wall and run cable I wouldn’t be as concerned with the battery levels.

 

 

 

Want to see it being tested?

 

 

Some projects and upgrades

So I have a few things on order coming from china for some various projects.

I figured since I haven’t posted much lately I will post some pre-project dribble.

Phoenix Connectors – Aliexpress

phoenix connectors I have these coming to be able to connect audio up to my ClearOne XAP800.   ClearOne XAP-800 Professional Audio Conferencing System Pic 4 xap800_l

The XAP800 is going to be added to my Home Automation system to be able to control/mix/route audio from various sources to various destinations.  If you want to read more about what this can do check out my buddy here.

http://hazymat.co.uk/2015/04/multi-room-audio-options/

 

3d Printer Upgrades

Its funny.   The whole time I have had my printer I have been constantly wanting to upgrade.  Maybe because I built my printer from a kit and know each piece.  I look at upgrades thinking, this will help just a tiny bit more.  This will make it a tiny bit better.  But also, I enjoy these projects.  So I have what I can only hope are my last big round of updates.  Nevermind.  I just thought of one more.  Bowden extruder…. but that’s for another post.

Motor Coupler – Aliexpress
The motor coupler is going be to used to connect my 5mm drive shaft to my below 8mm threaded rods.

Lead Screws w/ Copper Nut – Aliexpress
Replacing my current threaded rods and nuts with some nice thick Lead screws and longer copper nuts should add some additional stability and durability in that I won’t have to replace the nuts regularly like I do now.

Aluminum Build Plate – Aliexpress
The aluminum build plate will replace my glass bed.   I have hard it does well for heat distribution but also I need it for the below proximity switch.

Induction Proximity Switch – Amazon
I am going to get rid of current auto level setup.   I am going to the inductive sensor so there is no longer going to be a swinging arm.  This will hopefully improve start up time, and keep better accuracy.

shoppingUT82quJXalbXXagOFbXSReprap-Prusa-i3-3D-printer-parts-Anodized-Aluminum-BUILD-PLATE-for-Heated-Bed-3D-Printer-RepRap.jpg_640x64061fxf9nPCFL._SL1100_

 

Random

20 555 Timers – Aliexpress
ne555I have these 555 timers coming because I plan to use them on a small solar charge controller project I need for my Green Sprinkler system Project.

 

100 Optocouplers – Aliexpress
111781498246_1A couple weeks back I designed and tested a small circuit that will detect when the 12v accessory line in my car is turned on and off.  Using these optocouplers I will be able to use this signal to either power on my raspberry pi in my car, or to tell it to turn off.  This is going to be useful so that the pi doesn’t turn off as soon as I get home, but will be signaled to turn off in about an hour.  This will give enough time for sync jobs to run, backups and any config changes I want to do.

So there it is.  Some of my up coming projects

  • Big Printer upgrade
  • Solar Charge Controller
  • CarPi Power circuit deally (i need a better name)
  • Green Sprinkler System
  • Home Automation Audio Router

juggling-businessman-image

This guys has his shit way more together than I do.  Look at him!  He’s wearing a suit….  I barely wear pants!!!!